In the early 19th century, when the land between Notre-Dame de Lorette and Pigalle was still undeveloped, the tax collector Lapeyrière and the architect Constantin teamed up to build villas and mansions in the Italian and Greek styles.
The newly-built district attracted a large number of artists who wished to make it their home. These writers, comedians, musicians and painters, including Ary Scheffer, Eugène Delacroix, Gustave Moreau, George Sand, Victor Hugo, Claude Monet and many other illustrious names, formed the elite of the Romantic movement in Paris, and made no secret of their taste for the surrounding Hellenism at a time when Greece was in conflict with the Ottoman Empire. The New Athens was born!
Today, it's one of the capital's trendiest districts, known by its acronym SoPi for South Pigalle. Discover the cradle of Parisian romance in the heart of the 9th arrondissement, from Pigalle to Notre-Dame de Lorette**.
The walk begins at Place Jean-Baptiste Pigalle. At number 9 was the café de la Nouvelle Athènes (today Bio c' Bon) where, around 1870, the greatest painters such as Toulouse-Lautrec, Manet, Renoir, Pissaro, Willette as well as writers Guy de Maupassant, Émile Zola, Stéphane Mallarmé gathered... It was in this café that Edgar Degas painted his famous canvas "Dans un café", also known as "L'absinthe", in which he had two of his friends pose to illustrate the ravages of alcoholism.
Did you know? The 1st floor of this mythical venue has seen many cabarets and the rock club Le New Moon. Manu Chao and his first band La Mano Negra performed here in the late 80s.
Café de la Nouvelles Athènes – 9 place Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, Paris 18e
On the opposite sidewalk, at the place du Crédit Lyonnais, was the Rat Mort, where the writer Jules Vallès and the politician Léon Gambetta could be found; Rimbaud wounded his friend Verlaine there.
On Mondays, the model market was held around the Place Pigalle fountain, where women offered themselves as models to painters.
Place Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, Paris 9e
Wander down Rue Frochot, where former hostess bars have become trendy cocktail bars.
Take rue Victor Massé and admire the superb facades of buildings 23, 25 and 27, in the neo-Renaissance style so popular under Louis Philippe (1830-1848).
It was at number 25 that Théo Van Gogh lived when Vincent joined him. The apartment was too small, so they moved to 54 rue Lepic, on the other side of Place Pigalle.
It was also here that Berthe Weill opened the very first Parisian art gallery run by a woman. This formidable talent scout was responsible for the avant-garde presentation of Cubist paintings, the first sales of Pablo Picasso, with whom she forged a lifelong friendship, and the only exhibition of Modigliani's work during her lifetime.
The first floor of this building is also home to the Cotton Club, little brother of the legendary Harlem jazz club run by the underworld. Edith Piaf and Simone de Beauvoir both partied and slutted it up!
Rue Victor Massé is THE street in Paris to find a musical instrument: drums, guitar, bass, synthesizer, it's all there!
Rue Victor Massé, Paris 9e
Place Gustave Kaspereit features a superb Art Deco glass roof inspired by the prints of Japanese painter Hokusaï. Originally a private mansion built in 1837, it was transformed into a cabaret in 1920 under the name of "Shangaï". At the time, the place didn't bother with cultural subtleties, simply combining Japanese and Chinese influences.
Place Gustave Kaspereit, Paris 9e
Right next door stands the gateway to the magnificent avenue Frochot. Alexandre Dumas, Victor Hugo, Toulouse-Lautrec, Edgar Degas, gypsy jazz guitarist Django Reinardt and film director Jean Renoir, son of painter Auguste Renoir, all lived in this opulent alleyway, which is not accessible to the public.
Avenue Frochot, Paris 9e
Continue your stroll along rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle. The 18th-century French sculptor Jean-Baptiste Pigalle set up his studio here at number 4. The street took his name after the artist's death.
At number 67, a statue of a horse can be seen from the street in the building's lobby. This is where a annexe de la Poste à Chevaux de Paris was held. The original statue is the one you see, while a replica has been installed in the courtyard where the drinking trough once stood.
The **nightclub Chez Moune**, at number 54, still bears the sign Cabaret Féminin. This was the site of the capital's most famous lesbian club, run by an unusual character, Monique Carton, who called herself Moune. Today, it's a trendy club.
Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, Paris 9e
Fork rue Catherine de la Rochefoucauld. At number 66 stands the splendid hôtel Rousseau built in 1780. Victor Hugo lived here after the death of his wife, and took comfort in the arms of Sarah Bernhardt, who lived next door on rue La Bruyère. Then retrace your steps to rue Chaptal.
At number 16 rue Chaptal, the adorable Musée de la Vie Romantique is the perfect incarnation of a New Athens townhouse. The home of Dutch-born painter Ary Scheffer, it was the venue for the neighborhood's most important art salons, organized by its owner. Franz Liszt, Eugène Delacroix, George Sand and Frédéric Chopin all met here.
The ground floor of the museum is now dedicated to George Sand, while the first floor is devoted to works by the Dutch artist.
Did you know? Rue Chaptal has many other surprises in store! At the beginning of the street was a cabaret where the actor Louis de Funès performed, sometimes for entire nights, when he was still a jazz pianist. At 11 bis, a commemorative plaque reveals the presence here of singer-songwriter Serge Gainsbourg during his youth.
Musée de la Vie romantique – Hôtel Scheffer-Renan - 16 rue Chaptal, Paris 9e
More information on the musée de la Vie romantique
Retrace your steps to reach rue Notre-Dame de Lorette and admire the façade of number 49 and its front door adorned with the faces of Héloïse and Abelard. The same faces are to be found on the gates of the building at number 54.
Head down rue de la Rochefoucauld to discover the Gustave Moreau museum. The painter decided to bequeath his family home to the state as a museum housing an extremely rich collection (1,300 paintings, watercolors and cartoons and 5,000 drawings) by this highly productive Symbolist painter. The museum is also worth a visit for the building itself: the façade, the high-ceilinged rooms and the spiral staircase are unforgettable.
Musée Gustave Moreau – 14 rue Catherine de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9e
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Just a stone's throw from the Gustave Moreau museum, rue de la Tour-des-Dames is well worth a visit! The most famous actors of the first half of the 19th century acquired hotels particuliers on this street, which rivaled each other in elegance**. Admire the neo-classical façade of the Hôtel de Mademoiselle Mars** at number 1. People came from far and wide to admire what was then considered the most beautiful building in New Athens. At number 3, you'll find the hôtel de Mademoiselle Duchesnois belonging to François-Joseph Talma's troupe, who live at number 9 in a hotel whose decor is painted by Eugène Delacroix himself.
Rue de la Tour-des-Dames, Paris 9e
It's not a green space, but a discreet private residence built around a central fountain, inspired by English-style squares. At the beginning of the 19th century, the apartments were inhabited by personalities such as George Sand, Frédéric Chopin and Alexandre Dumas, who even organized a legendary party for 700 guests in settings painted by Delacroix.
Square d’Orléans – 80 rue Taitbout, Paris 9e
Head towards Place Saint-Georges, taking care to pass through Rue d'Aumale, which bears witness to the passage of Richard Wagner in 1860 at number 3. He complained about the noise from the saxophone factory of Monsieur Sax, inventor of the saxophone, at 50 rue Saint-Georges.
Join us on the Place Saint-Georges, which is a concentration of all that makes up the identity of New Athens. At the center of this square, which has remained virtually unchanged, stands the statue of Paul Gavarni, caricaturist with 1,300 supposed conquests, who was famous for drawing the Lorettes. This was the term used to describe the young elegant ladies maintained by generous lovers.
The square is surrounded by elegant townhouses. At number 27, the hôtel Dosne-Thiers, owned by the Institut de France, houses the fondation Dosne Thiers and its library specializing in the First Empire.
Fondation Dosne Thiers – 27 place Saint-Georges, Paris 9e
At number 28 stands the ancient hôtel particulier occupied for just one year by the socialite and courtesan Esther Lachman, known as the Marquise de Païva. In 1851, she married the Portuguese marquis Araujo Y Paiva, who gave her this residence built in 1840 by Edouard Renaud. The building's neo-Renaissance facade, criticized in its day for its abundance, is nonetheless entirely characteristic of the style prevalent in New Athens.
Hôtel de la Païva – 28 place Saint Georges, Paris 9e
The Saint-Georges theater adjoins the square. In addition to its shows, its Art Deco lobby is well worth a visit. It was here that François Truffaut, a child of the neighborhood, filmed part of "Le Dernier Métro".
Théâtre Saint-Georges – 51 rue Saint Georges, Paris 9e
More information on the Saint-Georges theater
Take rue Notre-Dame de Lorette and rue Flechier to reach the entrance to [Notre-Dame-de-Lorette church]. Built between 1823 and 1836 and listed as a Monument Historique, the church is considered to be the masterpiece of neoclassical architect Hippolyte Lebas. It was designed to meet the specifications of the period, which were specific to the neighborhood: the Greek-style façade and the Italianate interior. Its flat, vaultless ceiling is adorned with caissons.
Église Notre-Dame-de-Lorette – 18 bis rue de Châteaudun, Paris 9e
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To finish your stroll, head up the long Rue des Martyrs. This lively street is lined with numerous food shops, fashion boutiques, artisans, bars, cafés and cabarets.
A l’angle de la rue Hippolyte Lebas au niveau du numéro 10 de la rue des Martyrs, levez les yeux pour apercevoir deux grandes réclames Ripolin et Bénédictine datant du début du 20e siècle. Retrouvées quasiment intactes lors de travaux du pignon de l’immeuble, ces publicités signées Defoly sont désormais inscrites au titre des monuments historiques.
The famous Romantic painter Théodore Géricault set up his studio at number 23 in 1812, while he lived at number 49 on the same street.
Rue des Martyrs, Paris 9e
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