This walk takes you through Ménilmontant, a former suburb that was one of the hamlets annexed by the capital in 1860 under the impetus of Baron Haussmann. Enjoy strolling through the picturesque cobbled streets, which exude a distinctly provincial charm. You'll be able to hunt out the street art scattered around the area, and you'll be spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing a bistro terrace where you can melt into the landscape and take in the village atmosphere.
From the Couronnes metro station (line 2), walk to Place Maurice Chevalier.
The Place Maurice Chevalier has a provincial charm, with its café terraces on either side of the central median strip, majestically dominated by the église Notre-Dame-de-la-Croix. This vast church is distinguished by its 78-metre-high bell tower and the monumental staircase leading to its forecourt. Built in the second half of the 19th century, its neo-Romanesque style is infused with a touch of modernity, as metal architecture is revealed beneath the nave's vaulted ceilings, revealing attractive openwork metal arches.
Did you know? Notre-Dame-de-la-Croix is one of the largest churches in Paris: in fact, it is the third longest (97 metres), after Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral (127 metres) and Saint-Sulpice (120 metres).
Eglise Notre-Dame de la Croix de Ménilmontant - 3 place de Ménilmontant, Paris 20e
Go around the church via Rue d'Eupatoria to Rue de la Mare, where you won't want to miss the bright orange storefront of Le Monte en l'air.
This beautiful local bookshop is a must in Ménilmontant. With its vast, light-filled premises, the establishment can be transformed into a cabinet of curiosities, an exhibition space and even a bistro. In fine weather, a few tables take over the sidewalk.
Le Monte en l’air – 2 rue de la Mare, Paris 20e
Join rue de Ménilmontant and start climbing up. On your left, at number 79, a gate gives access to a staircase leading down to the Petite Ceinture.
The Petite Ceinture is a former railroad line that stretched for 32 kilometers around Paris in the mid-19th century. Once its service was discontinued, wild vegetation grew up and animal species re-inhabited the area. The section between Rue des Couronnes and Rue de Ménilmontant was redeveloped and opened to the public in 2018 as a 5,000 m² green island reserved for walkers. You'll have the pleasure of discovering this bubble of calm in the heart of Ménilmontant.
La Petite Ceinture – entre les rues de Ménilmontant et la rue des Couronnes, Paris 20e
More info on the Petite Ceinture
Exit via the rue de la Mare entrance, at the foot of the footbridge spanning the tracks. The latter was immortalized by photographer Willy Ronis. This is where the old Ménilmontant station once stood.
Passerelle de la rue de la Mare, Paris 20e
Go up rue de la Mare.
Place Henri Krasucki is well worth a visit! This small traffic circle is flanked by authentic and popular bars offering pleasant terraces ideal for a sunny break. Don't miss the village-style Mésanges and the bistrot des Cascades, a convivial literary café.
Les Mésanges – 82 rue de la Mare, Paris 20e
Bistrot Littéraire Les Cascades – 82 rues des Cascades, Paris 20e
Le saviez-vous ? La boulangerie-pâtisserie située place Henri Krasucki est classée au titre des monuments historiques du 20e arrondissement grâce à sa devanture ornée de médaillons au style Art Nouveau.
Take rue des Cascades.
This street, like so many others in the area, is in itself a small open-air street art gallery. Many of the works here are more or less ephemeral. Artists such as Jérôme Mesnager, Kam Laurene, Agrume and Fred le Chevalier have left their mark here. On your right, a fresco adorns the gable of the Les Mésanges café. This stretch of wall is regularly entrusted to the inspiration of a new artist who comes to "redecorate" the city with his or her imagination. We owe this artistic initiative to the aptly named Galerue.
Rue des Cascades, Paris 20e
The very name of Rue des Cascades alludes to the water that passed through it from the heights of Belleville to supply Paris. The regard Saint-Martin, which was used to control the flow and quality of the water, is on your way: it's this small 17th-century stone building, which adjoins a small square at the top of rue de Savies. It also gave the adjoining bar its nickname, "la Fontaine d'Henri IV".
La Fontaine d’Henri IV - 42 bis rue des Cascades, Paris 20e
Turn left onto the rue Fernand Raynaud staircase. As you climb it, you come to a small green space that has been left fallow and is inaccessible to the public in order to preserve biodiversity. It is overlooked by the jardin des Petites Rigoles, a belvedere decorated with mascarons from the Pont-Neuf and ancient stone bases.
Turn right into rue de l'Ermitage and left into Villa de l'Ermitage.
The magnificent Villa de l'Ermitage, an alleyway lined with houses and gardens, has miraculously escaped the various waves of modernization in the area to remain a well-hidden haven of peace. It's a delight to stroll along the gardens, where wisteria, lilacs, roses and magnolias flourish. At its far end, this island of calm meets the no less bucolic Cité Leroy, comprising a number of detached houses and artists' studios. A magnificent shared garden, with its mix of flowers and vegetables, completes the picture. Just across the street is the pretty place du Guignier with its village feel.
Villa de l’Ermitage - entre le 315 rue des Pyrénées et le 12 rue de l'Ermitage, Paris 20e
Cité Leroy - 19 villa de l’Ermitage, Paris 20e
Turn right into rue des Pyrénées and join rue de Ménilmontant on your right.
The Pavillon Carré de Baudouin is a former 18th-century resort dedicated to festivities and pleasure. Now dedicated to contemporary art, it hosts free exhibitions and conferences throughout the year. This "folie" is surrounded by a peaceful walled garden, where you can relax on the grass and admire the pavilion's facade. The Pavillon's perimeter wall is regularly enhanced by urban artists. The beautiful old building on the corner was renovated in 2007 to become a cultural space for the [20th arrondissement town hall](Le Pavillon Carré de Baudouin est un ancien lieu de villégiature du 18e siècle consacré aux fêtes et aux plaisirs. Désormais dédié à l’art contemporain, il accueille tout au long de l’année des expositions et des conférences en accès libre. Cette « folie » est entourée d’un paisible jardin clos où il fait bon se reposer dans l’herbe en admirant la façade du pavillon. Le mur d’enceinte du Pavillon fait l’objet d’interventions régulières d’artistes urbains qui viennent égailler sa surface. Le beau bâtiment ancien qui se situe à l’angle a été rénové pour devenir en 2007 un espace culturel de la mairie du 20e arrondissement.).
Pavillon Carré de Baudoin – 121 rue de Ménilmontant, Paris 20e
Cross rue de Ménilmontant to join rue du Retrait.
The name of this street comes from a distortion of "Ratrait", the name of the vineyard that once stood on the southern slopes of the Ménilmontant hillside. Today, it's no longer grapes that grow here, but street art that flourishes! In fact, this street now has an intense artistic life thanks to the intervention of a neighborhood association. For several years now, the association has enabled numerous artists to take over the facades and gables of the surrounding buildings with sometimes monumental frescoes.
Rue du Retrait, Paris 20e
Now turn into rue Laurent Savart, a pretty cobbled street that runs all the way down to rue Boyer.
Rue Boyer is well known to Parisians for its festive and cultural venues.
At no. 23, in a handsome industrial building, is La Maroquinerie. A concert hall with an eclectic program, a must for fans of emerging pop-rock music. The bar-restaurant, with its pleasant terrace, is an excellent meeting point before attending a concert. La Bellevilloise at 19-21 is a cultural establishment open to all forms of expression and experimentation: concerts, shows, exhibitions, screenings, innovative artistic approaches... It also boasts a convivial restaurant, the Halle aux Oliviers, as well as an elevated terrace.
La Maroquinerie – 23 rue Boyer, Paris 20e
More information on the Maroquinerie
La Bellevilloise – 19-21 rue Boyer, Paris 20e
More information on the Bellevilloise
Then turn right into rue de la Bidassoa. Continue along le square du Sergent-Aurélie-Salel. Continue along rue Sorbier, where you'll find yet more cafés and restaurants. Then turn left down rue de Ménilmontant, for a bird's-eye view of western Paris.
La cité du Labyrinthe is a charming, timeless passage that instantly transports you away from the hustle and bustle of rue de Ménilmontant. Be sure not to miss it! It's located at number 24; enter through a porch.
La cité du Labyrinthe, Paris 20e
