Birth : Late 19th century
Equipement : Climbing shoes, chalk
1st competition : 5-7 July 1985 in Bardonecchia, Italy
Number of climbers : 44.5 million worldwide
Olympic debut : Tokyo 2020 in 2021
3 to 6 August 2021
Venue: Aomi Urban Sports Park
Participants: 40 (20 men, 20 women)
2 events
Combined, men’s and women’s
Only one event per gender : a combined event featuring speed, boulder and lead.
• Speed : two athletes climb side by side up a 15-metre wall, with the layout and angle of the holds determined in advance. The first to reach the top eliminates their competitor and qualifies for the next round.
• Boulder : consists of climbing 4.5m high structures, without ropes but with crash pads below, in a limited amount of time and in as few attempts as possible. The ranking is based on the overall number of boulder problems solved.
• Lead : consists of climbing a previously unseen 15m high route, while attached by a rope. The ranking is determined by the highest hold reached before falling, and the time taken in the event of a tie.
Competition format
Final score calculated by multiplying the position obtained in each of the three disciplines. The aim was to obtain the lowest score.
Results
Men : Alberto GINES LOPEZ (ESP), Nathaniel COLEMAN (USA), Jakob SCHUBERT (AUT)
Women : Janja GARNBRET (SLO), NONAKA Miho (JPN), NOGUCHI Akiyo (JPN)
5 to 10 August 2024 (5 to 8 August for speed - 5 to 10 August for combined boulder and lead)
Venue : Le Bourget Climbing Centre
Participants : 68 (34 men, 34 women) - 28 for speed; 40 for combined (boulder and lead)
4 events
Speed, men’s and women’s
Combined (boulder and lead), men’s and women’s
There are now two events per gender: the speed event and a combined event featuring boulder and lead.
Competition format
For the speed event, nothing has changed. The first to reach the summit wins.
In the combined event, an athlete can now earn a maximum of 200 points: 100 in bouldering and 100 in lead. The aim is to obtain the highest score.
For bouldering, each of the four attempts can earn up to 25 points: athletes earn 5 if they reach the first zone, 10 for the second and 25 for the summit.
One tenth of a point (0.1 points) is deducted for each failed attempt to reach the summit.
For lead, the competitor who reaches the top of a route is awarded 100 points. An athlete receives points for the last 40 movements of the route: starting from the summit, the last 10 movements score 4 points each, the 10 preceding movements score 3 points each, the 10 preceding movements score 2 points each and the 10 preceding movements score 1 point each.
